I came back to Boston to walk around and let no man say that I did not fulfill my wantings.
I walked in three sections and you can see my routes by clicking on the section titles.
I started by walking back up South Huntington Ave and Huntington Ave to get some pictures of some interesting buildings I had seen the day before. The sun was shining bright but was ducking behind clouds now and then which was frustrating when trying to line up a shot only to have the sun move behind a cloud when I took the picture.
Off Brigham Circle there are two streets I used to love walking down when I went to WIT, Wigglesworth St and Worthington St (word to awesome British names). Most of the housing around Mission Hill are either ugly modern high rises or tired old triple-deckers. These two streets, and only these two streets, are lined with stately and handsome townhouses that look like they were picked up from the South End and planted down on the other end of town.
Further down Huntington Ave I walked around the campus of WIT. I cannot believe I went there, not because it was a bad school but because I could never see myself fitting into the townie-frat boy crowd there (I have changed since I went there but I still cannot see my past self there). I guess that’s why I left. I have seen a lot of change and a lot of places in the 4 years since I left WIT but the place and the people look timeless (about 2001).
I turned down Ruggles St to check out a new dorm being built by Northeastern next to the Ruggles Orange Line station on Columbus Ave, a stretch of highway with a park on one side and an empty lot on the other. This area was where acres of land was cleared in the 1960s to build a gigantic interchange for two highways that thankfully were never built. The new Orange Line and Southwest Corridor park system were supposed to help bring back the area, but the basic laws of real estate still applied (location, location, location) and the “neighborhood” is now only comprised of housing projects and a large police station.
The new dorm is horrendous. It is completely out of scale with the area, though when the area only has a couple of short buildings surrounded by fields being out of scale isn’t much of an issue. The main problem is the use of precast concrete panels that are painted to look like brick and already suffering from water damage despite the building being nowhere near complete. The projects across the street are literally nicer and in better condition. Northeastern has been building new dorms on the Huntington Ave side of the tracks for years and they have always been attractive and well built. I guess this shows what the university thinks of it’s poor neighbors.
I next walked down Tremont St heading north. The South End has two parts; the area above Mass Ave (the gentrified area full of artists and gays), and the land south of Mass Ave (projects, abandoned lots, a highway, and then what’s left of Dudley Sq.) If you stand at Mass Ave you can see the difference clearly when you look north and then south. I had never ventured south of Mass Ave so walking up Tremont St seemed like something I needed to do to get the full South End experience.
What I found is an area that shows signs of life despite extreme social issues. Tremont St is lined with old walk ups next to new or newish affordable housing. The side streets are a mix of old school low-rise projects next to new affordable housing that you probably wouldn’t think where projects unless someone told you. The streets where still sterile and devoid of life since it seemed that this was new housing, though I think this is the result of the new approach to dealing with failed projects; rip them down and put up mixed income housing. Will it work? Time will tell.
Up on Mass Ave you come to the area where the wealthy elite of Boston first built their mansions and townhouses, only to abandon them for the even more luxurious Back Bay. I made a quick detour up Mass Ave to inspect an infill project I had read about. It was very nice, contextual with red brick but modern in form. I especially liked the tall thin windows it used. I have a huge issues with most windows used in standard housing construction nowadays. I find them short and fat, not unlike the average American. This building, along with the new housing I had just seen, proved that you can work within the urban row house context and still be modern and interesting.
I made my way up Columbus Ave, which at this point is lined with stately brownstones that look straight out of Fort Green or Park Slope in Brooklyn. Most have first floor additions that are now funky retail stores, signs that I am now in YUPy territory. I weaved my way down side streets between Tremont and Columbus, admiring the variety of houses along quiet streets designed along the lines of London Squares; a median of elegant trees and rainbows of flowers running down the center of the street.
I walked down Warren Ave and turned on to Dartmouth St. Here I took another detour to explore Tent City. Tent City is an affordable housing development built after some Boston residents protested the lack of affordable housing in the city by setting up a tent city on cleared land across the street from Back Bay Station. The development is notable because it gracefully transitions from the low rise South End to the skyscraper canyons on the Back Bay. It also was one of the first post-modern housing developments that used contextual architectural elements instead of being just another brick box (a number of these bring boxes line Tremont St and Cloumbus Ave which seriously clash with the highly detailed townhouses.)
I walked down to the Prudential Center to see the new Mandarin Oriental hotel going up. I still don’t know how I feel about it. The massing is nice but I think the details are far too sparse for a building in such a prominent location. I think something like the Hotel Chelsea in Manhattan would be more appropriate; Gothic elements or perhaps a darker colored brick.
I hopped on the Green Line at Hynes and made my way to Park St for lunch. I never realized how spacious the Green Line stations are in the Back Bay. The arched ceilings give them the feeling of an asp in a modest cathedral. I don’t think a Bostonian would ever, EVER, think of a T station like a cathedral but seeing them after being used to New York station with their low ceilings and dark interiors makes the T stations feel much less oppressive.
One of the most exciting areas in Boston, IMO, is Downtown Crossing. Once the Herald Sq of Boston (Macy’s and Gimbels vs Filene’s and Jordan Mash), DTX fell on hard times when people began to move out to the suburbs and the retail followed. In the 1970s and 80s the area was known as the Combat Zone, high crime and a flourishing sex industry pushed out anyone who hadn’t left for the suburbs. Through intense community activism and help from City Hall the area was slowly cleaned up and became a bustling retail crossroads once again. But when a number of key anchor tenants, Barns & Noble and HMV, left the area started to falter. Then Macy’s bought Filene’s and decided to close the original Filene’s (which just happened to be across the street from Macy’s).
Over the last 7 years the city has pushed to revitalize the area. A number of new condo towers have gone up, along with new hotels and office towers, which has helped bring more street life to the area. Suffolk University and Emmerson College have begun fixing up old theaters and converting abandoned buildings into dorms. Two buildings currently under construction, 45 Province St and One Franklin, a new tower going up on the site of the former Filene’s building (though incorporating the historic building in the new tower) has me most fired up for the revitalization of DTX.
From here I explored the area a little bit, not knowing where I really wanted to go. I made my way up to City Hall and realizing I had never actually been inside, decided to check it out. The metal detector guy noticed my camera in my bag going through the machine and commented on how nice it was. The first thing that struck me was how open the building was. From the outside it looks like a huge bunker but inside it is light and airy with natural light coming in all over the place. No wonder it is a bitch to heat and cool. The doors to the courtyard were closed and the security check point gave the building even more of a fortress like feeling than the building already has. Still I think it is gorgeous and in desperate need for a modern makeover.
I had heard there was a giant model of downtown Boston up in the Boston Redevelopment Authority office so I went up to see if I could get in to see it. The receptionist told me I needed to have someone open the room for me but she couldn’t find the person with the key so she just sent me down the hall (seriously, I think they are far too trusting to send a scruffy hipster kid down through their offices unescorted). The door to the model room was closed but if you’ve ever seen Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark, it kinda looked like that room Indy goes into to find the real burial spot of the Ark. The lights weren’t on so the models of the towers were back lit by the sunlight coming in from the window. Mayor Menino has proposed building a 1,000 ft tall tower in the Financial District and the model for the tower commands the entire room (which is saying a lot when you have a room sized model of every building in downtown Boston). I immediately realized that if this building was ever constructed it would be the Prudential Building 2.0 and we would all regret it. The tower fails for the same reason all modern buildings do, it looks great as a conceptual model that an architect can show a person powerful enough to get it built. I went back down the hall, picked up some info on the BRA and internships and headed out.
I next headed to see the new North End Parks built after the Big Dig. I had seen the Chinatown and Financial District Parks (not very inspiring) but hadn’t seen these. Right off the bat I noticed a huge design flaw; the parks where elevated (due to the presence of highway off ramps below them) which blocks a pedestrians ability to see users of the parks. All you see walking down the street is a wall of shrubbery. Above, on the parks, there are nice lawns where you can sunbathe or play games, along with a promenade under a pergola which will actually be very nice in the summer time.
The old Central Artery was described as a giant gash cutting though the city. To take the analogy further, the new parks are very much like a giant scar. The newly planted grass and trees represent a scab. The area still feels disconnected from the rest of the city, but like all wounds, will heal in time. Buildings will be built around the parks to connect the city and bring in people, and the plantings will evolve and mature. The scar will remain but the wound will heal.
Up at North Station you can just start to see the wound healing. A new mixed use apartment building is going up where once an elevated train track ran. The lots next to it are barren, awaiting brighter economic conditions, but the streets are laid and the lamps are in. The Bullfinch Triangle will soon be repaired.
I hopped on the T to head over to Lechmere and on to Kendall Sq.
Part 3 and the rest of my journey tomorrow.